PLANT CARE
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Fall Planting
Remove Aster from container, plant 12-18” apart
Asters prefer a well-drained soil
Plant in full sun
Season of bloom is Sept.-Oct.
Flowers on Asters will tolerate a light frost
Winter Protection
Cut plants back to 3” the first week of November
Provide light mulching, 2-4” of loose straw works best
Spring
Remove mulch by April 1st (Mulch left on too long could smother young shoots)
Asters need to be divided in spring every other year
Pruning will be needed to keep plants compact and bushy
Cut plant back so that only 3-5” remain after pruning about the end of May
A second pinch is recommended about the end of June. (Do not pinch after July 1st) Care should be taken to pinch all shoots or else there will be uneven branch height & flowering.
Asters may get Whiteflies (Orthene or Diazinon work well to control these pests)
Under certain conditions Asters may get powdery mildew. Using proper spacing, avoid overhead watering late in the day, and removal of debris and weeds from the growing area help in this matter.
GRAPES
Most grapes are self-fertile, however you'll get best results by planting two different varieties in your yard or garden. Choose a site that offers at least 6 hours of full sun and protects from strong winds. A northern slope is perfect because temperatures are generally more even there. If possible, run vines in an east/west direction to cut down on shade cast on vines by the trellis. This also will help dry rain or dew quickly, cutting down on disease.
Grapes need a nutrient rich and well drained soil. You can encourage growth by adding an organic supplement at planting time and mulching the roots afterward. The site should be sunny and fairly open and have good air circulation. Set vines in the soil at the same depth as they were growing in the container. Cut back canes to two or three buds. If you are staking the plant, place the stake at time of planting to avoid root damage. If plants are planted in rows, allow 7-8 feet between vines.
Grapevines will twist and twine around everything within reach unless snipped and trained to grow where you want them. If you want shade for a patio or screening for privacy, limit pruning to the removal of scraggly growth and old canes. For quantities of luscious clusters, serious pruning is in order each year. If vines overproduce and have too many bunches, the grapes will never get sweet. This can be remedied in future years by more extreme pruning in the dormant season.
To protect against fungus disease, use a reliable fungicide at rates recommended on the panel. If insects threaten to defoliate the vine, spray thoroughly with an insecticide labeled for intended use against insects. Grape berry moths over-winter on pieces of grape leaves on the ground. This situation can be controlled by tilling the leaves into the soil or by applying malathion insecticide just before bloom, just after bloom and two months later.
Don't be fooled by a purple grape. Most varieties change color well before they have arrived at peak ripeness and flavor. Let taste be your guide and enjoy the harvest.
RASPBERRIES/BLACKBERRIES
Choose a sunny location with a deep loamy soil. Good drainage and an adequate supply of moisture are essential. Soil pH should be 6.0-6.8. Till soil to remove perennial weeds and work in plenty of rotted manure or peat moss.
Space plants 3'-4' apart and rows at 5'-8'. At time of planting, use 1 lb of general purpose 10-10-10 or similar per 20 ft row. Thereafter, apply 2 lbs per 29 ft row once a year in early spring before new growth begins.
In early spring, when plants are still dormant, remove weak and spindly canes. Cut out bearing canes as soon as the harvest is over. Train new canes to a post. Canes that grew in the summer will produce a crop next year. If properly pruned, raspberry canes are self supporting.Harvest berries as they ripen as they change color rapidly. Deep red color on red varieties and a dull coating on others means harvest time has arrived.
BLUEBERRIES
A delicious fruit that is high in health benefiting anti-oxidants. Blueberries are not self-pollinating so you will need to plant at least two varieties. They require a light acidic soil that is high in organic matter. Soil should be well drained and have a pH of 4.0-5.2.
Dig a hole double the size of the root system and add peat moss and aluminum sulfate. Aluminum sulfate should be added at 2 tablespoons per plant at planting time. Reapply 1 tablespoon per plant in spring, summer and fall.
Fertilize the first year with 1.5 oz of 10-10-10 or similar per plant at time of planting. Thereafter, use 3 oz per plant when plants break dormancy in the spring.
During the first year, prune back to 3 or 4 strong shoots. In following years, selectively prune to maintain shape and remove dead or damaged branches.
Harvest blueberries when the fruit is solid blue with a light, whitish glow. Pull them gently from the cluster.CURRANTS & GOOSEBERRIES:
These wonderful small fruits can be eaten fresh or made into jams and jellies. Currants make a refreshing juice that is high in Vitamin C.
Plant currants and gooseberries in well prepared, weed free soil that is high in organic matter. You may want to amend your soil with peat moss. Avoid southern facing slopes since intense sun may injure plants. Soil pH should be between 6.0-6.8. Space plants 4'-5' apart in rows 6'-8' apart. Harvest and enjoy.STRAWBERRIES
Plant berries in a sunny, weed free location with a soil pH of 6.5-6.8. Care needs to be taken to plant strawberries at the correct depth. Plants must be set so the crowns are slightly above the soil line.
Fertilize with 1 lb of 10-10-10 or similar per 100 square feet at planting time. Follow up with 2 lbs per 100 square feet in late April for established beds.
Keep strawberry beds weed free, the soil damp and the fruit off the ground by mulching the bed with a generous amount of straw. For a ;new bed, apply the straw at planting time. Once a bed is established, you will want to mulch the entire bed in late fall after the ground has froze. Remember to pull the straw from over top of plants in spring, around early April.
TIP: Planting more than one variety next to each other will help extend the picking season!RHUBARB
Rhubarb is very east to grow. Plant in well prepared soil, about 3 ft apart, with the top of the plant level with the soil surface. Do not plant to deeply.
When plants become established, fertilize liberally with aged manure and all purpose garden fertilizer. Follow this procedure every fall and spring.
If you have a bed that is older than 5 years, you will increase the yield and the vigor of the plants by dividing them.HORSERADISH
Plant in any good soil. Maintain moisture, fertilize at planting time and again every spring at about 2-3 lbs per 100 square feet with 12-12-12 or similar.
Planted in spring, your roots will be ready to harvest the following fall.
General Information for Hanging Baskets
Remember that a hanging basket is in a container. Unlike plants in the ground, it cannot send out roots to reach for more water or nutrients. It is solely dependent on you for its nourishment.
Judge watering requirements on the basket's location and how hot and sunny or windy it is that day. Get a feel for your baskets weight. Lift it to see if it is heavy or feather light. This is the best way to determine how much water your basket needs that day. Most baskets will require water every day if it is hot and sunny. But remember to let the soil dry out a little bit to give the roots air. No plant likes to have wet feet all the time. How dry to let it get depends upon the type of plant. Also base how much to water on the size of the plant. Larger plants or actively growing plants need more water and fertilizer to keep them at their optimum appearance.
All baskets are also subject to salt build-up. So make sure to thoroughly water your baskets about every 5th to 6th watering. This means the water should run out of the bottom after the soil is already wet. This helps to leach the salts out. Be careful to check the soil and make sure it is thoroughly moist because if the soil has dried and shrunk back from the sides of the basket, the water will immediately run out without really wetting the soil. If this happens, water the basket slowly to give the soil time to soak up the moister and re-expand.
This may all sound very complicated but with a little patience and practice, you can keep your basket looking beautiful all summer long.Watering and Fertilizer Definitions
The following terms will be used to indicate frequency of watering and strengths of fertilizer:Watering
Frequent - Every day, twice daily on hot, sunny or windy days.
Moderate - Every one to two days.
Light - Every one to three days.Fertilizer
Light - 1/2 Strength, every 2 weeks.
Moderate - Full Strength, every 10 to 14 days.
Heavy - Full Strength, every 7 days.
Hanging Baskets for Full Sun
Blue Wonder - Profuse bloomer, grows 9 - 12" tall. Requires frequent watering. Every day, or even twice a day on hot days. Heavy Feeder.
Verbena - Clusters of trailing pink, red or purple flowers with airy appearance. Heights 8 - 12". Requires watering every day, twice daily on hot days. Susceptible to thrips, aphids, and whiteflies.
Part Sun / Part Shade
Blue Cloud
Streptocarpus - also called Dancing Cloud because of the multitude of tiny trumpet shaped blue flowers that seem to dance above the foliage. Foliage resembles that of the violet family and like violets, the foliage will become spotted if watered from above with cold water in particular. Will continue to bloom if brought in for the winter. Light water and light fertilizer requirements.Ivy Geraniums
Vining plant habit with large blooms in many colors. To keep the basket blooming and healthy, remove faded flowers and old leaves regularly. Water every, to every other day, let soil dry between waterings. Fertilize every 7 to 10 days with moderate feed. If plant growth gets too leggy, pinch tips to promote branching.Minicascade Ivy Geraniums
Type of ivy geranium with a profusion of single bloom clusters. Available in pink, red and lavender. Care is the same as ivy geraniums.Lobelia
Multitude of tiny blooms on airy foliage in blue, rose and white. Water moderately heavy, fertilize moderately.New Guinea Impatiens
Bushy plant growth in a variety of colors, some with variegated foliage. Does best in partial shade. Will come back from wilting due to lack of watering; but shouldn't be allowed to wilt. Easy care, requiring little cleaning. Moderate to heavy water, light feed. Sensitive to over fertilizing.
Fall Planting
Remove Mum from container, plant 12-18 apart
Mums prefer a well-drained soil
Plant in full sun
Season of bloom is Aug.-Oct. (Depending on variety)
Flowers will brown slightly with frost, but buds will not be affected
Winter Protection
Cut plants back to 3 the first week of November
Provide light mulching, 2-4 of loose straw works best
Spring
Remove mulch by April 1st (Mulch left on too long could smother young shoots)
Mums could be divided on the third year
Pruning will be needed to keep plants compact and bushy
Pinch plant back so that only 3-5remain about the end of May
A second pinch is recommended about the end of June. (Do not pinch after July 1st) Care should be taken to pinch all shoots or else there will be uneven branch height & flowering.
Possible pests for Mums are Aphids and Thrips.
Definition of a Perennial
Perennials are herbaceous (non-woody) plants which die to the ground each winter and grow anew from the roots each spring. Perennials are relatively easy plants to grow, given the right location and proper care. Perennials can be used in beds, borders,
cutting gardens, at waters edge, rock gardens, naturalized woodlands or meadow plantings.Choosing the Right Plant
You need the right plant for the right situation. The most important factors when choosing a plant are the amount of sunlight the location receives and the soil condition. More than six hours of sun light is considered full sun. If you get less than three hours of sun, then choose shad plants.Preparing the Soil
Preparing the soil in the bed is the first important step towards getting a plant off to a good start. Most perennials grow best in well-drained soils. If your soil is sand or clay based, the addition of organic matter such as peat moss or compost can be very helpful.Planting
Container grown perennials can be planted any time during the growing season. If you can, choose an overcast day for planting - hot sun will stress plants. If you can't plant right away, don't let containers dry out. Keep them in the shade and well watered. Circulation of air reduces the risk of mold and mildew, so leave space between plants. Set the plant in the ground at the same level it was in the container. Water plants thoroughly. All late season plantings should be mulched for their first winter. This protects the plants from "heaving", which pushed plants above ground and lead to their death.Watering
Watering early in the day allows foliage to dry before dark and reduces diseases. Newly planted perennials need more attention than established plants. Keep an eye on them over the next few weeks and make sure they stay watered. Do not fertilize them right away. Plants will not need additional nutrients until they are growing well.
Perennial Plants
for HummingbirdsAcastache
Aquilegia
Delphiniums
Dianthus
Foxglove
Hemerocallis
Heuchera
Honeysuckle
Iris
Lupinus
Lychnis
Monarda
Penstemon
Phlox Paniculata
Salvia - Purple Rain
Scabiosa
Trumpet Vine
Yucca
Perennial Plants
for ButterfliesAsclepsia
Asters
Autumn Joy Sedum
Baptisia
Buddleia
Caryopteris
Centranthus
Ceratostigma
Dianthus
Echinacea
Eupatorium
Lavandula
Liatrus
Lychnis
Penstemon
Rudbeckia
Saponaria
Stokesia
Perennials that do well
in Moist AreasAstilibe
Aruncus
Bergenia
Chelone
Cimicifuga
Convallama
Eupatorium
Ferns
Filipendula
(Queen of the Prarie)
Hemerocallis
Iris Ensata
Lobelia Cardinals
Ligularia
Lythrum
Physostegia
Primula
Rodgersia
Perennials that do well in dry Dry Areas
Achillea
Asclepsia
Amsonia
Armeria
Artemesia
Coreopsis Threadleaf
Flax
Guara
Lambs Ear
Russian Sage
YarrowFor dry areas look for
plants with: silver or gray
hairy leaves.
Small leaves like:
Moonbeam
Amsonia
Armeria
Flax
Guara
AsclepsiaSucculent leaves like:
SedumsLarge roots or tap roots.
Poinsettias
Originally a winter-flowering shrub found in Central America and Mexico are beautiful plants that add a festive touch to any holiday celebration and beyond. With enough light and proper watering, your Poinsettia will stay pretty for months!Light
Place your new Poinsettia in a brightly lit area for best results.Temperature
Your poinsettia will like a daytime temperature of 72°F and a night temperature of 60°F. To prevent leaf drop, avoid drafts from windows, doors or heating vents. Plan to wrap your plant completely with paper if you will be taking it outdoors when it is colder that 50°F.Watering
Water the soil thoroughly once the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Your poinsettia will not want to sit in excess water that may collect in the saucer after watering, so be sure to empty the saucer. It is not necessary to fertilize you plant during the holiday season.Reflowering
To reflower your poinsettia, you will need to provide total darkness each night, beginning approximately September 20th . This can be obtained by setting the plant inside a closet or sitting a large cardboard box over the plant at 5:00pm. Bring the plant back to its sunny window each morning at 8:00. A room with no lights at night and a sunny window during the day can work as well. Water regularly to keep the Poinsettia healthy. Continue this dark night treatment until you see bracts appear at the top of the plant. This should occur around the first of December.Pruning
Cut stems down to 6" in the spring. Fertilize every 3 weeks. You can prune again to promote bushiness by no later than mid-August if you plan to rebloom for the holidays.
Choosing a Site
Keep in mind that choosing just the right place in your yard for your roses is the first and probably the most important step in caring for them. Your roses should get at least six hours of full sun (this allows for maximum blooming), preferably in the morning (this helps dry the leaves, helping prevent disease). Give the roots room to establish, they don't like competition. Wind protection is important, try to plant near some type of barrier.Soil
Most roses are very tolerant of many kinds of soil. But ideal soil for roses should be light and rich. Heavy clay should be loosened with gypsum, add vermiculite or sand to help drainage. Soil can be improved by adding organic matter (peat moss, leaf mold, or compost).Planting
Planting roses that have already been growing in a container is very simple, but also very important for winter protection in our area. Some literature will tell you to plant your roses so that the bud union (the large wood knot just above the roots where the branches begin) is above the soil. This is not the case for our climate. When you dig the hole, make sure it is deep enough for the bud union to be 2 inches below your soil level.
If you are planting more than one rose, proper spacing varies with different types of roses, 2 feet between hybrid teas, grandifloras, and floribundas should be plenty. Shrub and old garden roses will need more, ideally 4 to 6 feet. Climbers could need up to 10 feet depending on how they will be trained.
Mulching can literally be a lifesaver when it comes to your roses, and can also save you a lot of work. Mulch helps prevent disease, conserves moisture in the soil, is very effective in weed control, and can enrich the soil as it decomposes. Your mulch can be wood chips, chopped leaves, pine needles, or saw dust. Avoid grass clippings, hay, straw, anything that contains weed seeds.Watering
After planting, water your rose heavily for the first few days. After that, roses require about 1 inch of water every week, depending on soil type and weather conditions. A thorough soaking once every 5 to 7 days is preferred over light, daily watering. If possible try to water at soil level, avoid getting foliage wet. Also, it is best to water early in the day.
Fertilizing
Fertilize with granular or pellet form fertilizer (5-10-5 is best) should be done 3 times a year - early spring, after the first bloom cycle and early fall. Fertilizers available include; Miralce Grow Rose Fertilizer or Espoma Rose-Tone, can be applied every 2 weeks per package instructions.Winter Protection
In our climate (Zone 4) roses need protection from the winter wind and ice if we want them to come back next year. Our best suggestion is to prune your roses after the first heavy frost, then cut the bottom out of a bushel basket (or something similar) put it over your rose and fill it with dirt, if dirt is not practical, leaves are the next best thing. Protecting your climbers is a bit more complicated. The best way to protect a climbing rose is to unhook it from its trellis and dig up either the right or left half of the root ball and lay the entire plant over on the ground and cover it entirely with dirtPruning
Cutting back our roses can be a very disheartening act after caring for them so diligently, but it is the best thing to ensure strong healthy growth for the coming season. Pruning is best done about mid-spring, just before bud break.
One word, Thorns! Remember to wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt, one that you won't mind if it gets snagged.
It is best to use shears with a curved edge blade, straight blades can crush stems. You also want to keep your shears sharp and clean them after each sue to avoid spreading disease. Also, you should always make your cuts at a 45 degree angle, so that moisture can run off the wound easily.
Hybrid-Teas, Grandifloras, and Floribundas
Best if somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 their height and width is cut back each year. Also remove any criss-cross canes, keeping only 4 of the healthiest canes.
Shrub Roses
Should be pruned lightly for shaping.Climbers
Almost always produce their blooms on 2nd year branches, so they don't get cut back severely every year. They should be pruned after the bloom cycle, not in the spring. First you want to remove the two oldest canes, then thin out the dense growth. At this time also trim any branches that are longer than desired. Remember with all roses you want to remove any dead or broken wood.Dead-Heading
Always cut the stem back to a leaf cluster with 5 leaves, that will ensure a strong new chute. Throughout the season remove all Suckers, those are any chutes that come out from below soil level. They will never bloom, and will only take nutrients away from the rest of the plant.Pests and Disease
Roses are susceptible to many diseases and insects, the main ones to watch for in our area are listed below.Powdery Mildew
A disease caused by a fungus, that usually occurs due to excessive moisture. It forms a white powder on leaves and flower buds. Most susceptible are young stems and leaf clusters. Poor air circulation or watering at night are open invitations to powdery mildew.
Black Spot
A fungus caused by excessive moisture. It causes small black spots to appear on the leaves, then the leaf will turn yellow and fall off.*Both of these diseases spread quickly, prevention is the best weapon. But if either does show up remove the infected area and discard somewhere far away from your garden! Use Immunox or Bayer All-In-One to treat these plants.
Thrips
Very small insects that hide within the flower bud and suck out the juices. This will cause your flower buds to die before opening or drop its petals immediately after opening.
Aphids
Small but visible insects usually light green that live in colonies on the underside of young leaves, or on the seed pod of a flower bud.*We suggest that a regular application of a product called Bayer Rose and Flower All -In-One, (a combination of a fungicide and an insecticide and fertilizer) available at Wojo's, can be very effective in preventing and controlling all four of these problems.
Spring MaintenanceWith the beautiful weather we've been having, many of you are out and ready to garden. There are many "chores" you can perform now to get your beds ready for spring.
Remove overwintering mulch and add a fresh 2 to 3 inches to flower beds. Cut back spent perennials and divide overgrown plants. Be careful about uncovering roses. You can remove mounds of soil as it becomes workable, about 1/3 at a time.
For spring blooming bulbs, fertilize bulbs at flowering and deadhead fading blooms to prevent seed pod formation. Leave the fading green leaves attached to manufacture food for the bulbs.
Pull straw away from crowns of strawberry plants. New crowns can be planted later. Plant cool season crops as the ground becomes workable.
Right now is a great time to get your annual beds ready. Work up your soil and use Preen N Green so soil is ready for annuals when the weather is warm enough. Watch for emerging pansies!
Summer MaintenanceYou may notice your garden annuals look a bit scraggly about now. They need a haircut! Nearly all annuals can be cut back by about 1/3 and fertilized for new growth. Hanging baskets can also be cut back.
With all the hot, hot weather we have had to water more than usual. Increased watering promotes leaching, which is fertilizer draining through the soil. To combat leaching, fertilize at 1/2 strength once a week, rather than full strength every two weeks.
Any annuals that don't get cut back (such as zinnias, celosia or salvia) should be regularly dead-headed. If you're unsure whether you should cut back or dead-head, give us a call and we'll be happy to answer your questions.
Have you tried our Wojo's Jem yet? Wojo's Jem vinca vine is a uniquely variegate variety of vinca vine that is very colorful and adds class to any combination planting. It is especially striking in combination with shades of blue, violet and red plants and does very well in sun or shade. This unique vinca vine is growing across the world. Click onto the Jem picture links on our home page or come in and see the combination plantings using Jem.. It is truly a beautiful plant.
Stop in and see the hibiscus in bloom. These large "saucer" flowers come in different colors and will brighten your garden.
Fall & Winter MaintenanceFall is an excellent time to plant most trees and shrubs. Select your plants so that landscape colors extend into fall. Wojo's has a variety of trees and shrubs that flower and/or change color well into fall. Make sure plants are well watered going into winter, especially evergreens. Evergreens will need to be watered in the winter if it is dry. Be sure to plant your tree or shrub in an area where it will thrive. Remember to protect your plant from winter road salt.
Protect trees and shrubs from early spring insects by applying Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Control in the Fall. If fungus was a problem this season, treat trees with Lime Sulphur Spray after the plant has gone dormant and leaves on the healthy trees have fallen, to protect against over wintering fungus.
Shrubs that bloom in late summer, such as clethra and hydrangea, should be pruned in fall. Azaleas, rhododendron, holly and boxwood should be given the extra protection of a product such as Wilt Pruf to help plants retain moisture during the winter. These plants will also benefit from mulching with an acid material, such as pine needles or oak leaves.
When planting bulbs, make sure the bulb is pointed up and planted 2 times as deep as the bulb is high. Space according to the bulb labels. Bulbs can be planted between late August until the end of October or until the ground freezes. For color all season we recommend mixing early blooming varieties with mid season and late blooming varieties. Stop by early while the selection is at its best.
Fall is the time for garden cleanup and for putting plants to bed for winter. You will want to weed and cultivate garden beds and borders. Pull the annuals that have been damaged by the frost, but be careful not to disturb perennial roots or bulbs when working the soil. Rake leaves and compost or shred them for mulch. With the clay and sandy soils in our area, organic material should be left to help enrich the soil.
Tender bulbs, such as begonias, cannas and dahlias, should be dug and stored for the winter. You can keep them in a cool place in shallow boxes, covered with dry sand or sawdust. Plant fall bulbs now.
Roses should be winterized by lightly pruning and mounding soil around the base of the plant. Top the soil with 8"-10" of loose mulch, shredded leaves, wood chips or evergreen branches. The mulch can be held in place with a cylinder made out of chicken wire. This method works for hybrid teas, floribundas and miniatures. For climbing roses, it is best to detach the canes from their support, bend and pen them to the ground and cover with soil. After the ground freezes, add a layer of mulch. Some climbers bloom on the old wood and this method will ensure blooms for next year.
The most commonly asked perennial questions in the fall are, "When do I cut back my perennials?" and "How far back do I cut them?" A good rule of thumb is that you should cut most perennials back to 4"-6" from the base (crown) of the plant after the first killing frost.As soon as the ground has frozen, usually mid-November to early December, lay up to 2" of organic mulch (such as shredded bark, bark nuggets, pine straw or shredded leaves) over your perennials. Do not use leaves that haven't been shredded since they have a tendency to mat down and hold to much moisture, causing crown rot. Also, do not put down mulch too early or mice and voles will make cozy homes under the mulch and enjoy tasty meals out of your plants' roots.
Many perennials are evergreen or semi-evergreen and should be left undisturbed until spring, when spent leaves and stems can be cleaned out. Perennials in that category include: Bergenia, Heuchera (Coral Bells), Arabis, Thymis, Myrtle, groundcover varieties of sedum, Dianthus and perennial varieties of Geranium.
Other varieties of perennials that should be left standing in winter are those that will survive the harshness of winter and those that create "winter interest" and/or feed nature. Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Lavendula (lavender) and ornamental grasses are a few examples of plants that should be cut back in spring, usually to within 6" of the ground. Do not cut the lavender back too early or the plant might die from a late cold snap. Cut plants back to just above the area that you see fresh new growth appearing. This can usually be done when you pull that winter mulch away in late March to early April.
Ornamental grasses, tall Sedum varieties, Perovskie (Russian Sage) Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan) and Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) are plants that can provide an eye catching view from your window during the long, drab days of winter. The birds will flock to your garden to feast on the seedheads of the Black Eyed Susan and Purple Coneflower. All of these reminders of the summer past help to revitalize the gardener into thinking of the summer soon to come!
You can reduce damage to your yard by deer and wild life by fencing off gardens during vulnerable times. If this method is cost prohibitive, individual tree protectors (woven wire, plastic cylinders, plastic netting or tree wraps) can be useful for protecting young trees. Repellents can also be used.
The success of plants in your garden depends on many factors: appeal, ability to adapt to soil and environmental conditions also maintenance of your plants is very important to it's survival.
Our plants are given the "ideal" growing conditions during production so you can purchase and enjoy a healthy plant. When you get home with your plants don't let them dry out if your not planting them right away. This may mean watering every day in summer, maybe twice a day, and set them where they will be protected from full sun until you can plant them. Always try to plant as soon as possible.
Good soil is a very important key to the success of your new plant. Well prepared soil is fluffy and loose, so water, air, and nutrients can filter down easily and roots have room to grow. Adding organic matter like shredded leaves, grass clippings, hay, straw, aged cow manure, aged sawdust, peat moss, or compost helps aerate the soil and retains water and nutrients.
When Planting, remove the plant from the container by covering the surface of the pot with one hand, spreading your fingers over the soil on either side of the stem. Tip the container so it's upside down on your hand, gently pull the container from the plant, never pull the plant out by the stem. Sometimes it's necessary to tap the bottom of the pot or press down firmly on the side of the container prior to removal.
Examine the root system. If the roots hold their shape once you have removed them from the container, gently pull to loosen the mass of roots or "Butterfly" the roots. To do this take a sharp knife or trowel, turn the plant upside down, and slice the root ball into four equal sections, stopping about three inches from the top of the soil ball. This will allow new roots to regenerate into the soil instead of remaining in a ball.
The planting hole should be approximately two to three times wider than the soil ball or container. The depth of the hole should be such that the plant when set into the hole is at the same level it was in the container.
Once your plants are in the ground, Water them thoroughly. Keeping an eye on them over the next few weeks to make sure they stay watered and don't dehydrate--"DON'T FERTILIZE." (Note: Never put fertilizer in the planting hole.) When you need to water, water deeply, and put the water on the ground, not overhead. (Drip or trickle irrigation is the best.) Plants don't need additional nutrients until they're growing well.
We wish you the best of luck with your trees and shrubs, if you have any further questions, or tips to help others, please don't hesitate to call us at (248) 627-6498.
TOMATOES
Plant when weather and soil have warmed and any chance of frost has passed. Plant so that lowest leaves are; above soil level, or lay horizontally if plants are tall.
Use an all purpose fertilizer at time of planting then small amounts of a low nitrate tomato food 4-5 weeks later.PEPPERS
Plant when weather warms and nights are above 55 degrees. Space 18" x 30" and water regularly. Mulch to retain moisture and reduce weeds.
Peppers respond well with an application of an all purpose fertilizer at 3-4 week intervals.
Planting peppers before the nights are warm enough, or cold winds blow on them, can severely stunt or kill the plants.CABBAGE FAMILY
(Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Kohlrabi, Celery, Lettuce, Onion)
These plants will grown in any good garden soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0. They are also very cold tolerant and will thrive in the cooler temperatures of our area. Most of these plants will do best when spaced 18"-30" apart. Kale and Kohlrabi require spacing of only 6"-12".
For best results, fertilize often with 8-10-8, or similar, at 2-4 lbs per 100 square feet, or 1 lb per 25 foot row at planting time. Side dress every 3-4 weeks with 1 lb per 25 ft row, or 1-2 tablespoons per plant.
Apply enough water to wet the soil 8-10 inches deep. Monitor developing plants for pests (cabbage worms, cutworms & cabbage loopers).
Harvest broccoli when buds are still tight, before they open into yellow flowers. Pick brussel sprouts from the bottom up when they're about 1" in diameter. Cut cabbage just below the head when firm and before it cracks. Cauliflower should be cut when heads are 6"-8" in diameter with tight curds. Pick kale leaves when plant is 1 ft tall, or entire plant my be harvested. Kohlrabi is ready to harvest when the bulb is 2"-3" in diameter. Pick celery when it is 10"-12" and before it becomes tough and stringy. Head lettuce can be picked when it is full and firm while you can harvest the outer leaves of leaf type lettuce as you need it. Green onions are ready when they are pencil size, sweet onions when the tops turn yellow and fall over and leeks when the stems are 3/4"-1" in diameter.BEANS, EGGPLANT, OKRA, PEAS, SWEET CORN
These plants will grow in any good garden soil with a pH of 6.0-8.0. Plant peas as early as you can work the ground in the spring. Beans and sweet corn are safe to plant when the threat of frost has passes. Eggplant and Okra are very sensitive to cold and can be stunted or killed if planted without protection before June 1.
This group of plants will benefit by applying 8-10-8, or similar, at planting time and then at 3-4 week intervals. Rates will be 3 lbs per 100 square feet or 1 lb per 25 ft row.
To harvest beans, pick while still slender and seed pod begins to swell. Eggplant can be picked when the skin is glossy and a slight indentation remains in the skin when pressed with your finger. Cut okra pods when they are about 4" long and before they become fibrous. Peas should be picked as soon as the pod is filled. For edible podded peas, harvest when the peas inside the pod just begin to form. Sweet corn needs to be filled out completely to be at its best, usually when the silk turns brown and dries out.
Spring – Getting StartedRemove floating and excessive debris, leaves, twigs, etc.
Check pumps and clean filters, also, look for any needed repairs
Lift and repot or divide overcrowded plants, removing any dead foliage
Watch out for late frost damage to new & established plants
Add products like barley straw or pellets, beneficial bacteria, and enzymes if needed
Add small floating plants like duckweed (this multiplies and can get out of hand later) to protect developing waterlilies
Begin feeding fish as they come out of hibernation
Water Change of 20% once a month
This is also a good time to plan new plantings
Summer Jobs
In early summer, add tropical floaters and tender marginal plants
Water change of 20% once a month
Watch water levels during drought – add if needed
Keep an eye out for algae and remove string algae by hand
Thin out any excessive submerged or floating plants
Regularly deadhead flowering plants to help control seeding
Monitor for pests and diseases
Fall Clean-up
In late August, you should do a 30-40% water change before first application of Micro-Lift autumn clean up
Tropical and tender plants should be removed and wintered over under cover
Remove all dead foliage, flowers or stems and cut back plants
Some plants winter over best in the ground rather than the pond
Check on your types to see which is best
Fish should be given a wheat germ or oat based food to add body fat for winter
Pumps not in use during winter should be removed and cleaned
Check on purchase of a pond de-icer and put down leaf netting
Winter Care
Drain pumps and fountains to avoid damage from freezing
Raise level of pond pumps, if they are to be left on, so they are recirculating colder surface water and not the deeper water where the fish are hibernating
Place your de-icer in pond to prevent ice from forming over entire pond surface
Never strike the ice on your pond, the percussion can harm or even kill your fish
Leave fish to hibernate in deep water undisturbed
Winterizing Pond PlantsPreparing your water plants for winter is a regular fall tradition. The normal time to start is after a hard killing frost. By trimming and cleaning of dead leaves, you improve water quality. It is also a good idea to do a 30%-40% water change before adding winter prep like Micro-Lift.
Floaters
Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce are tropical plants. It’s best to remove them after a killing frost, and buy new plants each year. To winter in the house, they require 60 degree water temperature and very high light.Oxygenators
Hornwort or Coontail, Parrot Feather and Floating Heart and Mares Tail are winter hardy. They should be trimmed back to 2 or 3 inches and moved 18 inches or deeper in the pond.Hardy Marginals
These should also be trimmed down to 2 or 3 inches after a killing frost and placed 18 inches or deeper. The exceptions to this rule are hollow stemmed plants such as rushes, cattails, and reeds. These are trimmed in early spring. Cutting stems below water level in the fall can cause rot that can travel to the crown, killing the plant.Hardy Waterliles
You can winter over hardy lilies several ways.1. The easiest way is leaving lilies in 18 inches of water or deeper in pond. After a frost, foliage will turn yellow; remove stems and leaves as they go dormant.
2. If you don’t have 18 inches of water, your pond may freeze solid. Lilies will not tolerate freezing solid. You can store them in a cool basement or breezeway in a tub of water, maintaining a temperature of 40-50 degrees. Trim off foliage. They may grow back a few small leaves but will soon go dormant.
3. After frost has killed foliage, remove lily from pot. Rinse all soil away and cut off all foliage. Place lily tuber in moist peat moss or sand in a plastic bag.
Whichever option you choose, it is important that they be kept damp, but not saturated. If they are too wet, they will rot, but they can’t be allowed to completely dry out. Again, temperature should run 40-50 degrees. In spring, replant lily tuber and put it back in the pond after the ice has melted.
Tropical Marginals
Can often be wintered over as houseplants. Simply bring them inside growing in a saucer of water, in a sunny window. They can also be treated as water garden annuals and replaced every year.Calla Lily
It’s best to dry them in pots and store in a cool dark area over winter. One month before putting back outside start watering and place in a sunny window.Canna Bulbs
Can be stored for winter or replaced each year. Once you have dried them, store bulbs in moss or coarse vermiculite in a cool dry area.Colocasia
Grown as a houseplant, they will get much larger. They can also be dried down to a tuber, stored in coarse vermiculite for winter. Another way is to dry them out in a pot, and leave in a cool dark place until spring.