FALL CARE FOR YOUR GARDEN

Fall is an excellent time to plant most trees and shrubs.  Select your plants so that landscape colors extend into fall.  Wojo's has a variety of trees and shrubs that flower and/or change color well into fall.  Make sure plants are well watered going into winter, especially evergreens.  Evergreens will need to be watered in the winter if it is dry.  Be sure to plant your tree or shrub in an area where it will thrive.  Remember to protect your plant from winter road salt.

Protect trees and shrubs from early spring insects by applying Bayer Tree and Shrub Insect Control in the Fall.  If fungus was a problem this season, treat trees with Lime Sulphur Spray after the plant has gone dormant and leaves on the healthy trees have fallen, to protect against over wintering fungus.

Shrubs that bloom in late summer, such as clethra and hydrangea, should be pruned in fall.  Azaleas, rhododendron, holly and boxwood should be given the extra protection of a product such as Wilt Pruf to help plants retain moisture during the winter.  These plants will also benefit from mulching with an acid material, such as pine needles or oak leaves.

When planting bulbs, make sure the bulb is pointed up and planted 2 times as deep as the bulb is high.  Space according to the bulb labels.  Bulbs can be planted between late August until the end of October or until the ground freezes.  For color all season we recommend mixing early blooming varieties with mid season and late blooming varieties.  Stop by early while the selection is at its best.

Fall is the time for garden cleanup and for putting plants to bed for winter.  You will want to weed and cultivate garden beds and borders.  Pull the annuals that have been damaged by the frost, but be careful not to disturb perennial roots or bulbs when working the soil.  Rake leaves and compost or shred them for mulch.  With the clay and sandy soils in our area, organic material should be left to help enrich the soil.

Tender bulbs, such as begonias, cannas and dahlias, should be dug and stored for the winter.  You can keep them in a cool place in shallow boxes, covered with dry sand or sawdust.  Plant fall bulbs now.

Roses should be winterized by lightly pruning and mounding soil around the base of the plant.  Top the soil with 8"-10" of loose mulch, shredded leaves, wood chips or evergreen branches.  The mulch can be held in place with a cylinder made out of chicken wire.  This method works for hybrid teas, floribundas and miniatures.  For climbing roses, it is best to detach the canes from their support, bend and pen them to the ground and cover with soil.  After the ground freezes, add a layer of mulch.  Some climbers bloom on the old wood and this method will ensure blooms for next year.
     
The most commonly asked perennial questions in the fall are, "When do I cut back my perennials?" and "How far back do I cut them?"  A good rule of thumb is that you should cut most perennials back to 4"-6" from the base (crown) of the plant after the first killing frost.

As soon as the ground has frozen, usually mid-November to early December, lay up to 2" of organic mulch (such as shredded bark, bark nuggets, pine straw or shredded leaves) over your perennials.  Do not use leaves that haven't been shredded since they have a tendency to mat down and hold to much moisture, causing crown rot.  Also, do not put down mulch too early or mice and voles will make cozy homes under the mulch and enjoy tasty meals out of your plants' roots.

Many perennials are evergreen or semi-evergreen and should be left undisturbed until spring, when spent leaves and stems can be cleaned out.  Perennials in that category include:  Bergenia, Heuchera (Coral Bells), Arabis, Thymis, Myrtle, groundcover varieties of sedum, Dianthus and perennial varieties of Geranium.

Other varieties of perennials that should be left standing in winter are those that will survive the harshness of winter and those that create "winter interest" and/or feed nature.  Buddleia (Butterfly Bush), Lavendula (lavender) and ornamental grasses are a few examples of plants that should be cut back in spring, usually to within 6" of the ground.  Do not cut the lavender back too early or the plant might die from a late cold snap.  Cut plants back to just above the area that you see fresh new growth appearing.  This can usually be done when you pull that winter mulch away in late March to early April.
     
Ornamental grasses, tall Sedum varieties, Perovskie (Russian Sage) Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan) and Echinacea (Purple Coneflower) are plants that can provide an eye catching view from your window during the long, drab days of winter.  The birds will flock to your garden to feast on the seedheads of the Black Eyed Susan and Purple Coneflower.  All of these reminders of the summer past help to revitalize the gardener into thinking of the summer soon to come!
     
 You can reduce damage to your yard by deer and wild life by fencing off gardens during vulnerable times.  If this method is cost prohibitive, individual tree protectors (woven wire, plastic cylinders, plastic netting or tree wraps) can be useful for protecting young trees.  Repellents can also be used.  When plants are dormant such repellents as Hinder, Ro-pel and Deer-away can be used.  Human hair and bars of soap can help, but it is debatable how effective they are.  One bar of soap will protect one square meter of area.

The best way to discourage deer is to select plants that are less attractive to eat.  Some plants that are rarely damaged by wild life are:  Barberry, Paper Birch, Common boxwood, Russian olive, Holly, Blue Spruce, Dogwood, Forsythia, Junipers, Lilac and Wisteria.